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What's In Shrimp Food? - SKV Meeting 2 2025

Date:
By Greg

Today's SKV meeting was fantastic! Great engagement from the attendees. Big thanks to Alex, Dellsea, Eric, Gerard and Paul for attending. Definitely need to get you folks a cool pin for putting up with me. 

 

The topic for this meeting was: What's in Shrimp Food. If you like the content and want to see one done for regular fish food, make sure to harass Bob constantly let the Committee know so they can schedule it in.

 

This list is far from comprehensive. It simply covers the most common ingredients found in off-the-shelf foods. 

 

 

What's in Shrimp Food?

Topic 1: Decoding the Label

 

Ever look at the back of a shrimp food packet (or any food, really) and feel like you need a chemistry degree? You’re not alone! So let’s break it down.

 

Crude Protein

-Total Nitrogen content. May not take into account indigestible proteins.
-Building blocks for growth, moulting and baby shrimp development
-More is needed during breeding and growth stages (aim for 35-45% during these stages)
-Protein governs muscle and tissue growth, alongside egg formation
-Shrimp typically need 25-30% protein, primarily from veg and biofilm, with insect proteins to support.\
 

Crude Fat:

-Aggregate total of all fatty substances, including true fats, fatty acids, oils, waxes, sterols (like cholesterol), and vitamins
A, D, E and K.
-Not all fats are made equally. A high fat content of essential fatty acids like Omega 3’s and 6’s is
infinitely healthier than a low fat content consisting of saturated and trans fats.
-Shrimp use fats as long-term energy sources, as well as for absorption of pigments, hormone and cell function, egg
production and more
-4-6% crude fast is typically good, but up to 8% can be suitable if breeding or if food is rich in unsaturated fats or EFA’s.\\

 

Crude Fibre refers to the indigestible parts of plant and animal matter.

-Mostly Cellulose and lignin.
-Fibre helps shrimp poop, just like people.
-Essential gut bacteria found in shrimp can ferment fibre, producing short chain fatty acids (good for energy).
-Healthy gut flora = better immune function and nutrient absorption
-Roughage helps mimic natural diets (rotting leaves, wood etc)
-Fibre can dilute high fat diets, reducing ammonia spikes and constipation from rich foods.
-5-10% is a good range on average, but leaf heavy diets can hit 12-15% without much issue.
 

Carbohydrates aren’t often listed on shrimp foods as shrimp don’t typically use carbs. But we’ll cover them here anyhow.

-Provide quick energy – especially during times of stress or during moulting
-Too much can cause fatty buildup on the hepatopancreas (the shrimp’s main metabolic organ (responsible for energy production etc)
-Some complex carbs (like beta-glucans) can act as prebiotics, fuelling gut flora.
-Can be calculated by 100% - (protein + fat + fibre + ash + moisture).
-Crude carbs include starches, sugars, gums and binding agents, vegetal matter
-Carbs can form up to 30 or 40% of a regular diet, with less during breeding (when high protein foods are fed)
 

Ash is what’s left after a sample of food is burned off at above 550c.

It’s not dirt or soot, it’s the inorganic minerals and trace elements essential to any fish’s diet.

Think: calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese…

Minerals are life. They form shells, bones, nerves, muscles, govern fluid exchange (osmoregulation), enzyme and immune function and so much more.

>6% = too low. 6-10% is balanced, and 10-12%+ is suitable for breeding, growth and moulting cycles… however

- Higher Ash isn’t always better. Excess inorganic fillers (high clay content or added minerals can irritate sensitive guts, reducing nutrient absorption!

 

And finally, we come to Moisture. Moisture is what it sounds like: the amount of water present in fish food. More isn’t always bad, but less isn’t necessarily good either.

The lower the moisture, the more concentrated the nutrients. Ie: 1g of dry food has more protein than 1g of wet food.

The moisture content also affects the following:
- Shelf Life: Dry foods (<10% moisture) last months to years if sealed.

-Wet/moist foods may only last weeks or months.
-Foods with higher moisture soften or hydrate faster, making them easier to eat. Good for juveniles or picky eaters/
-Moist food breaks down faster (typically).
 

Topic 2 - Behind the %'s - Let's look at what's hot and what's not

 

As mentioned before, not all sources of proteins, fats, fibre etc are made equal. Some are good, some are bad, and some are just plain dadgum ugly. So let’s dive into what we should and shouldn’t feed our wet bugs, and learn to avoid what ingredients some fish keepers use that ought to get them strung up by an angry mob.

I will reiterate this again: this list is not comprehensive, is highly based on context (some of the "bad" stuff is amazing, but needs to be used sparingly) and is mostly based upon my knowledge and research, although I cannot promise 1000% impartiality - I am, after all, merely human.

Here;s what each of these classifications means, because apparently it's cowboy times this weekend (yeehaw)

The Good - Spectacular source of Nutrients. If your food has one or more of these, it's probably great (and expensive).

The Bad - Not completely terrible, but not great either. Usually beats starvation. May also include amazing ingredients that require specialised dosing.
The Ugly - If your food contains ANY of these, burn it and feed your shrimp the cardboard packaging - it's probably better for them.

 

Protein - The Good

These are bioavailable, clean protein sources with balanced amino acids profiles shrimp need for growth, moulting and reproduction.

 

Good Sources

Why they’re good

Krill Meal

High in digestible protein, plus extra carotenoids for colour

Insect meal (Black Soldier Fly, Silkworm etc)

Mimics natural shrimp prey, great amino acid profiles, high in EFAs

WHOLE Fish Meal

Cheap. High-quality marine proteins, easily absorbed

Spirulina, chlorella, other algae

Plant protein + antioxidants + immune support + mineral rich

Yeasts (brewer’s, torula)

Supports digestion and immune health, alongside a balanced amino profile

 

Protein - The Bad

Still protein, but often less digestible or nutritionally lacking. Or in case of Black Worms and Bee Pollen, great but only as a snack.

Bad Sources

Why they’re Bad

Whole Soy Meal

Lower in certain amino acids, not so easy for shrimp to digest

Soy Protein Concentrate

Higher protein concentration, but same lack of certain amino acids

Gluten meals (wheat, corn)

More binder than nutrient, poor amino profile

Legume flours (pea, lentil)

High in starch, unbalanced for shrimp if overused

Non-whole fish meal

Lower grade, variable digestibility, more ash

Blood worms

low in some key amino acids, lacking calcium, limited digestibility, pollutes if overfed

Blackworms (live, Frozen or dried)

high protein, triggers natural instinctual response in shrimp, but lacking calcium and other trace elements. Use sparingly during breeding

Bee Pollen

Rich in amino acids, essential fatty acids (including Omega-3 and 6), trace elements, carotenoids, and more.
Incredibly potent—a little goes a long way.
Should be used sparingly to avoid water quality issues and over-enrichment.

 

 

Protein - The Ugly

Low-quality or misleading sources that inflate protein values but don’t nourish properly.

Ugly Sources

Why they’re Ugly

Feather meal, blood meal

Poor quality protein, terrible amino profile, just plain gross

Hydrolised animal byproducts

Poor amino acid profile. Often high in saturated fats. Terrestrial proteins poorly metabolised by fish.

Fish derivative meal

Cheap filler. Often old or oxidized. Not fish gut friendly.

 

 

Fats - The Good

High-quality, digestible lipids that support shrimp colour, reproduction, moulting, and immune function as well as energy.

Good Sources

Why they’re Good

Krill oil / krill meal

Rich in omega-3s (EPA/DHA) and astaxanthin—great for color and fertility

Insect fat (e.g., BSFL)

Contains lauric acid—supports immunity and natural feeding behavior

Fish oil (high quality)

Omega-3 powerhouse, aids in egg development, brain and Nerve health

Algae/Spirulina

Adds essential fatty acids + pigments

 

Fats - The Bad

Technically fat, but less efficient, less stable, or poorly digested by shrimp.

 

Bad Sources

Why they’re Bad

Soybean oil

Plant omega-6-heavy, pro-inflammatory in high amounts

Corn oil / vegetable blends

Common in fish food, but not ideal for shrimp metabolism

Excess fat in processed meals

Can coat organs (esp. hepatopancreas) if overfed

 

 

Fats - The Ugly

Low-quality, unstable, or misleading fat sources that do more harm than good. Literally the equivalent of feeding your shrimp Deep Fryer oil by the spoonful

Ugly Sources

Why they’re Ugly

Animal tallow / lard

Saturated fats shrimp can’t digest well—accumulate in tissues

“Generic fish oil” with no source listed

Often low-grade, highly oxidized or solvent-extracted

 

 

Fibre - The Good

These fibre sources mimic the wild diet—slow to break down, supportive of gut function, and full of biofilm-friendly texture. These offer slow-release nutrition, gut structure, and molting support without clogging up the system.

Good Sources

Why they’re Good

Leaf matter (e.g., mulberry, guava, Indian almond, sweet chestnut)

Natural roughage, boosts gut flora and releases trace minerals

Algae cell walls (spirulina, chlorella)

Soluble fiber + beta-glucans = prebiotic + immune support

Vegetable fibres (pumpkin, spinach, kale)

Soft fibres shrimp can graze and process easily

Wood powders/bark (e.g., alder, loquat)

Mimics decaying wood in nature; biofilm scaffold

Fungal fibres (mushroom cell walls, yeasts etc)

Source of beta-glucans, great for immune support

 

Fibre - The Bad

Technically fiber—but too much bulk, too little function. These fill the belly but not the nutrient bank. These should never dominate a formula—okay for structure, but low nutritional contribution.

 

Bad Sources

Why they’re Bad

Wheat bran / rice hulls

Cheap fillers; some use, but high in phytates that block mineral absorption

Soybean hulls

Moderately digestible, can ferment poorly in tanks. Good in small amounts for biofilm

Corn fibre/starch

Hard to break down, mostly filler unless finely processed

Pea/legume fibre/starch

Okay in moderation, but usually paired with starchy protein that can cause imbalance

 

Fibre - The Ugly

Rough, useless, or gut-irritating materials that may inflate the fibre number but don’t actually benefit the shrimp—and can even be harmful.

Overloading on these can lead to sluggish digestion, waste buildup, and reduced feeding behavior. Constipation sucks.

 

Ugly Sources

Why they’re Ugly

Cellulose powder / microcrystalline cellulose

Pure bulk, zero nutrition, and hard on the gut

Lignin-rich plant waste (wood pulp)

Indigestible, anti-nutritional, not suitable for shrimp

Synthetic binders labeled as “plant fibre

Misleading and may alter gut motility

Excess insoluble fibre with no solubles

Can cause gut slowdown, especially in juveniles

 

Behind the %'s - Carbs

As mentioned before, Carbs aren’t used by fish in the same way they are with mammals, however there are some commonly used Ugly carbs to watch out for:


- Wheat Flour, Rice Bran and Corn Starch. Bulk Carb sources, little nutritional value.

- “Vegetable Meal” or “plant byproduct” – often code for fillers.

 

Ash - The Good

These are bioavailable, shrimp-safe mineral sources that support exoskeleton strength, molting, osmotic balance, and nerve function. These sources offer balanced mineral profiles and natural release rates.

Some of these aren't typically added to fish foods, but are pertinent nonetheless

Good Sources

Why It’s Good

Food Grade Montmorillonite/Bentonite clay

Rich in trace minerals, binds toxins, supports shell health

Cuttlefish bone / eggshell powder

High in calcium carbonate—great for exoskeletons and pH stability

Algae (spirulina, chlorella)

Source of bioavailable magnesium, iron, and calcium

Shrimp-specific mineral blends

Tailored for soft-water species (GH boosters like Salty Shrimp)

Natural leaf litter (guava, mulberry)

Slow mineral release + biofilm boost

Crustacean shell meal

Adds calcium + chitin for moulting cycles

 

Ash - The Bad

 

These might be technically mineral-rich but are harder to absorb, imbalanced, or poorly processed. These are usable in the right context, but can cause mineral imbalance if overused.

Bad Sources

Why It’s Bad

Bone meal (generic)

Can have unbalanced phosphorus, high ash, and poor digestibility

Dolomite lime

Too much magnesium vs calcium = shell issues if misbalanced

Crushed coral

Raises GH/KH fast; not ideal for Caridina, but okay for Neos

Inorganic calcium carbonate (low grade)

Poor solubility, especially in soft/acidic water

 

Ash - The Ugly

Cheap, misleading, or gut-irritating mineral sources that inflate ash % or compromise shrimp health.

 

Source

Why It’s a Problem

High-silicate clays (e.g., bentonite). Typically labelled as "stock" or "feed" grade

Non-nutritive, may irritate guts or bind good nutrients

“Mineral mix” with no ingredients listed

No transparency = no trust

Excess inorganic ash from fish bone or cheap filler

Inflates ash number without adding usable nutrition

Rusty iron-rich additives

Toxic at low levels to shrimp (especially soft-water species)

 

 

Topic 3 - An exploration of Common Shrimp food

I tried to be impartial. i really did. But some of these foods (commonly found on Australian aquarium store shelves) just speak for themselves.

 

Dennerle Shrimp King Complete

Ingredients: Kelp, Insect Proteins, Dandelion, Nettle, Spinach, Mulberry Leaves, Chlorella, Montmorillonite, Moringa, Rosemary, Mannooligosaccharide, Beta Glucans, Bee/Flower Pollen, Turmeric, Cinnamon

BBreakdown:

Protein: 24.6%

Fat 6%

Fibre 7.7%

Ash 15.4%

 

Doesn’t specify insects used, but Germany has strict controls on animal food quality – almost more strict than Australia’s human food laws. . No use of fish meals, plenty of leaves and vegetal matter. Natural preservatives (rosemary). No synthetic additives (vitamins, minerals etc). Focuses on holistic nutrition. A little lower in protein, but they do offer a variant with 45% protein.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Life Spectrum Invertebrate - Crustacean

Krill (Euphasia superb), Squid (Dosidicus giga), Whole Wheat Flour, Fish (Brevoortia tyrannous), Green Algae (Chlorella pyrendoidosa), Seaweed (Ulva lactuca, Undaria pinnatafida, Eucheuma cottonii, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus), Kelp, Garlic, Ginger, Astaxanthin, Spirulina, Fish Oil, Marigold Bentonite Clay, Sea Salt, Vitamin A Acetate, Vitamin D Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement,Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Folic Acid, Biotin, Thiamine Hydrochloride, Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Calcium Pantothenate, L-Ascorbyl-2-Polyphosphate (Vitamin C), Choline Chloride, Ethylenediamine Dihydroiodide, Cobalt Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate.

Analysis:

Crude Protein (Min.): 36%
Crude Fat (Min.): 7%
Crude Fiber (Max.): 7%
Moisture (Max.): 10%
Vit. A(Min.): 10000 IU/Kg
Vit. D(Min.): 3500 IU/Kg
Vit.E (Min.): 400 IU/Kg
Ascorbic Acid (Vit. C) (Min.): 600 IU/Kg
 

A classic case of a food that chases %'s instead of focusing on Nutrition. The specific percentages are not terrible, but they clearly used synthetic minerals to "enhance" a mediocre food. 

 

 

Hikari Shrimp Cuisine

 

InFish meal, krill meal, wheat flour, flaked corn, dehydrated alfalfa meal, brewers dried yeast, wheat germ meal, dried seaweed meal, cuttlefish meal, fish oil, alfalfa nutrient concentrate dehydrated, spirulina, chitosan, kale meal, DL-methionine, astaxanthin, garlic, choline chloride, vitamin E supplement, L-ascorbyl-2-polyphosphate (stabilized vitamin C), inositol, d-calcium pantothenate, riboflavin, vitamin A supplement, thiamine mononitrate, pyridoxine hydrochloride, niacin, folic acid, vitamin D3 supplement, biotin, calcium carbonate, ferrous sulfate, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate, manganese sulfate, copper sulfate, calcium iodate.
 

Crude Protein

Crude Fat

Crude Fiber

Moisture

Ash

min. 40.0%

min. 6.0%

max. 3.0%

max. 10.0%

max. 14.0%

 

Unspecified fish meals, wheat flours, corn and legume meals… all low digestion and bulk fillers. Piled high with synthetic additives to make it “nutritious”. Hikari foods are… not great.

Very low in fibre, and high protein (although mostly bad protein). Roughly 7% carbs, and higher Ash than needed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAS (Serious About Shrimp) "Shrimpy Bits"

“Shrimpy Bits is a premium shrimp food, made from the highest quality Australian-grown organic ingredients including kale, soy, spinach, peas, spirulina, garlic, astaxanthin and bee pollen.

Also contains responsibly sourced Atlantic krill and fish meal with mineral and fortified vitamin mix to provide the ultimate in nutrition for promoting health, growth and colour.”

AAnalysis:
Protein: 10%

Fibre: 5%
Fat: 2%
Ash 0%
 
-----All that’s provided. No proper ingredients list, no declaration of which fish meals are used, and no specification of what “vitamins and minerals” are used. And don’t even get me started on the analysis.
Extremely low protein for the alleged meal content. Drastically low Fibre, negligible fat. And… 0% ash? For a “fortified with minerals”??!? Something Fishy here.
I genuinely hope that the creator simply made a mistake. If anyone knows the guy, please give me his contact details. I'd love to give him a hand with it
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
-----That's pretty much it for this dive into Shrimp Nutrition. Any questions or comments can be kept to yourself left in the comments box below and i'll do my best to follow up on it!

I've taken the liberty of uploading the original powerpoint doc here as well for posterity's sake. Try not to make too much money from my slick grafix
Attached Documents:
What's in Shrimp Food

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